"The Higher the Price, the Better It Sells": New York's New Gilded Age: The True Nature of Luxury Menus

"The Higher the Price, the Better It Sells": New York's New Gilded Age: The True Nature of Luxury Menus

1) A Town Where a $600 Piglet Becomes "News": New York

Dining out in New York has shifted into a higher gear—several numbers symbolize this atmosphere. For instance, at French-style restaurants, a **$435 Tomahawk steak** and a $260 turbot (fish) are prominently featured as marquee items. At another establishment, a "whole piglet" for 8-10 people is listed on the menu for $600, with a note stating "reservation required 24 hours in advance." LinkedIn


The point is that it's hard to dismiss this as merely a "super high-end store story." What's happening now is not just in the "otherworld" of white tablecloths, but even in buzzing restaurants, new openings, and slightly upscale places in the city, which are beginning to incorporate luxury into their menu designs. LinkedIn



2) The New Rule of Luxury: "Not Everything is Expensive," but "Extras are Expensive"

Recent luxury trends often appear as steps of upgrades (additional charges) rather than "the entire course being expensive."

  • A "spoonful of caviar" with a martini

  • Caviar on potato chips or nuggets

  • Shaved truffles for an "extra aroma"

  • Substituting dishes with Wagyu


These "one-action luxuries" are convenient for both customers and restaurants. Customers can choose "just this for today" based on their budget, while restaurants can keep base prices low and recover costs with high-margin add-ons. LinkedIn


A frequently cited example in this context is the **"$100 caviar-topped chicken nuggets (6 pieces)"** that became a topic at the US Open venue. Its novelty becomes a "value of experience," and the story spreads before the taste. Parade



3) Why Does It Work? — The Reality Where the Top 10% Hold "Almost Half the Wallet"

The question "Who would pay such prices?" is answered by economic figures.


Reuters reports, based on Moody’s Analytics, that the "wealthiest 10%" in the US account for half of the consumption (compared to about 36% 30 years ago). Reuters


Bloomberg similarly reports the trend that high-income groups are responsible for "about half" of consumption. Bloomberg

In other words, even if the remaining 90% save money, if the upper class spends on dining out, the "average for the store" can be maintained. This creates fertile ground for the polarization of dining out.



4) The Keyword is "K-Shaped Economy": Only the Wealthy Side Rises

The term "K-shaped economy" is resurfacing to explain such divisions. The upper line represents the growth of income, assets, and consumption among the wealthy, while the lower line shows the struggle of low to middle-income groups due to rising prices, forming a "split" shape. CBS News explains the K-shape in this very sense. CBS News


AP also reports that the perspective of capturing disparities with a "K" is spreading, as it is difficult to see with average values. AP News

The luxurious menus in NYC are product plans tailored to the "upper line" of the K-shape. Moreover, dining out, like watches and bags, is a form of consumption that is easy to show off to others. Photos, videos, reviews, reservation difficulty—experiences become content themselves, and high prices guarantee "specialness."



5) Reactions on Social Media: Anger/Irony/"I'd Like to Try It Once" Coexist

What makes this topic interesting is that social media is not just a "bulletin board for pros and cons," but an amplifier of the meaning of prices.


(A) Backlash: "Symbol of Inequality" and "Showing Off"
On LinkedIn, the content of a NYT article is quoted and spread in the context of "K-shaped economy appearing in dining and hospitality." LinkedIn


In another LinkedIn post, while touching on the spending ratio of the top 10%, a light-hearted comment like "Feels good to be in the 10%, right?" appears, and another comment shows irony by referencing Marie Antoinette. LinkedIn


(B) Mixed Laughter and Disgust: Numbers Become "Material"
On Reddit, article links are shared, and harsh comments about the prices and the piglet itself line up (e.g., responses leaning towards animal welfare and ethics). Reddit


(C) Curiosity: "Once as an Experience"
Like the $100 nuggets, extreme prices don't just end as "too expensive," but are consumed as "events." In fact, they are repeatedly featured in media articles, becoming buzz machines for food. Parade


Social media harbors contradictions here.
While saying "I hate inequality," people end up viewing "experiences that seem unequal" as content. Anger and desire flow on the same timeline, making topics easy to ignite and long-lasting.



6) Why "Wagyu for All?" Resonates: Inflation of Words and Borrowing Brands

The "Wagyu" included in the NYT title has now become a too-convenient symbol of "luxury." SFGATE reports on the movement by Japan to protect the value of "genuine A5 Wagyu" as the word "wagyu" is widely used in overseas markets, causing confusion. SFGATE


What is happening here is not just inflation of ingredients, but inflation of words.
Writing "wagyu" makes it look expensive, and if a high price is attached, it makes people think "it must be genuine." Words and prices mutually reinforce each other, further advancing luxury.



7) What Lies Ahead? "Hollowing Out of the Middle Range" and "Generalization of Small Luxuries"

If this trend continues, dining out in cities is likely to take the following forms.

  • More experiential offerings for the upper class: Rarity, reservation difficulty, and SNS spread become valuable

  • The middle range struggles: Raising prices lowers visit frequency, and keeping them steady is unsustainable

  • "Small luxuries" spread: Even if the whole is impossible, a spoonful of caviar or shaved truffles might be chosen LinkedIn


8) Conclusion: Menus as Mirrors of Society

A $600 piglet and a $435 steak are symbols of luxury, but they are also mirrors that make social divisions "visible".
And in an era where mirrors spread on social media, we are consuming not just "price" but the "stories those prices create."


The NYC story may seem extreme. However, as long as inflation and polarization, as well as "show-off consumption," intensify, the same structure can be transplanted to other cities.
The next buzz on your timeline might be a $100 nugget or some other "spoonful of luxury."



Reference Articles

A $600 Suckling Pig? Wagyu for Everyone? A New Golden Age Seen in Menus
Source: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/12/18/dining/nyc-restaurant-prices-luxury-menus.html