Changes in Japan's "Unagi Kabayaki" — About 40% of Products in Stores Were : Latest DNA Analysis Reveals Distribution Reality and Challenges for Sustainability

Table of Contents

1. Introduction: "Doyo no Ushi" and the Myth of Japanese Eel

2. Overview of the Survey and Main Results

3. Current Status of Eel Consumption and International Trade in Japan

4. Why American Eel Has Increased

5. Sustainability: The Risk of Endangered Species and Illegal Trade

6. Responses and Challenges in the Retail and Food Service Industry

7. Regulatory Trends of Government and International Organizations

8. Future Scenarios: Are Alternative Proteins and Closed Cycle Aquaculture the Saviors?

9. Five Actions Consumers Can Take

10. Conclusion: Connecting "Delicious Traditions" to the Future
    
    

1. Introduction: "Doyo no Ushi" and the Myth of Japanese Eel

For Japanese people, eel has been a symbol of "nutritional fortification" since the Edo period, with the custom of eating grilled eel on the midsummer day of the ox. However, even with advances in aquaculture technology, all seed eels rely on natural glass eels, and the decline in catch has led to price hikes and resource depletion.phys.org

2. Overview of the Survey and Main Results

• Survey Conducted by: Chuo University, Hiromi Shiraishi Research Team
  
  

• Target Products: 134 processed eel products purchased in seven cities nationwide
  
  

• Analysis Method: DNA Barcoding (Mitochondrial cyt-b gene)
  
  

• Results

  • Japanese Eel: 61.7% (82 products)

  • American Eel: 36.8% (49 products)

  • European Eel: 1.5% (2 products)

  • All domestically labeled products were Japanese eel, with a majority of imported products being American eel
    . This result suggests a potential mismatch between labeling and species.phys.org
    
    
    
    

3. Current Status of Eel Consumption and International Trade in Japan

3-1 Structure of Glass Eel Imports

Japan imports approximately 2,000 tons of live and processed eel annually, mostly via China and Taiwan. To reduce transportation costs, juvenile eels are transferred to Asia for local farming and then re-imported to Japan as processed products, a practice known as "circular trade."

3-2 International Price Fluctuations

Since the CITES regulation of European eel (enacted in 2009), the demand for American eel has expanded as an alternative, with the trading price of glass eels reaching over 3 million yen per kilogram in some years.

4. Why American Eel Has Increased

1. Supplementing Seed Shortages
   Dramatic decrease in Japanese eel catches → Shift to other species.
   
   

2. Morphological Similarity
   Difficult to distinguish after processing, making price differentiation in the market challenging.
   
   

3. Lack of Specific HS Codes
   Species codes are grouped as "Anguilla spp.," making statistical visualization difficult.
   
   
   
   

5. Sustainability: The Risk of Endangered Species and Illegal Trade

• Both Japanese and American eels are listed as EN (Endangered Category 1B) on the IUCN Red List

• Smuggling of European eels and "species laundering" continue

• Hotbed of Illegal Distribution: Treated as legal at the destination → Processed → Re-exported
  
  
  
  

6. Responses and Challenges in the Retail and Food Service Industry

7. Regulatory Trends of Government and International Organizations

• Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries: Strengthening electronic management of distribution history and proper labeling guidelines

• CITES: Considering listing American eel in the appendices

• FAO/TRAFFIC: Promoting refinement of species-specific statistics through code revisions
  
  
  
  

8. Future Scenarios: Are Alternative Proteins and Closed Cycle Aquaculture the Saviors?

• Complete Aquaculture: Challenges in hormone management and feeding technology for mature parent fish

• Cell-cultured Eel: Startups are developing, with a goal to reduce production costs to one-tenth for practical use

• Plant-based Grilled Eel: Products replicating eel flavor with soy and seaweed show signs of success
  
  
  
  

9. Five Actions Consumers Can Take

1. Check Country of Origin and Species Labeling

2. Choose Products with Certification Marks (ASC, BAP, etc.)

3. Reconsider Seasonality and Consumption for "Occasional Luxury"

4. Try Alternative Products and Contribute to Demand Diversification

5. Report Suspicious Labeling to the Consumer Affairs Agency
   
   
   
   

10. Conclusion: Connecting "Delicious Traditions" to the Future

The key to preserving eel culture lies in "what we choose to buy."The distribution realities visualized through DNA testing serve as a catalyst for advancing corporate and governmental measures. Consumer choices and voices directly impact resource management and the suppression of illegal trade. To ensure that the midsummer day of the ox remains a "delicious season" for future generations, let's start choosing sustainable grilled eel.phys.org

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